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Solution To The 4000 Ten Series Battery Corrosion Problem

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TFF Admin

A while back I encountered a problem with corrosion due to battery out gassing in the radiator compartment of my John Deere 4410. This solution has worked out VERY well so I figured I would post my observations and write-ups of when I made this modification and a few follow up notes.

The aim here is to make this place the tractor forum to go to for your maintenance needs and to find modifications that DO work. :happy34:

Mind you, I made this modification about 4 years ago and have for the most part not touched this area since. I have checked every now and then to ensure not corrosion has returned.

Below is the write-up of when I found the corrosion problem about 4 years ago.

I checked my battery compartment a several weeks ago and inspite of my best efforts of soaking EVERYTHING in heavy baking soda solution, modifying the battery caps with the one piece cap and vent tube, and coating EVERYTHING with a GENEROUS coating of corrosion preservative spray after carefully cleaning and repainting everything in the battery compartment that needed it; my transmission oil cooler radiator and battery hold down hardware, as well as positive battery cable terminal were HEAVILY corroded; especially the trans. oil cooler radiator. What a poor design! And man was I PO'd!!!! :argh: :@#$@$:

I decided I was going to find a sealed AGM type battery that fit or make one fit! I had a VERY informative talk with Larry at Batterystuff dot com. and below is the battery that he located for me and is shipping me for $139 including shipping.

I will post the follow up below as to how this battery fits as well as its performance so this post is not so long. With 600 cold cranking amps; it should be more than adequate to start my 4410 and FINALLY do away with the corrosion caused by the inevitable release of hydrogen sulfide into the battery compartment and radiator area.

http://www.svrbatteries.com/battery_page.php?bid=23&vid=-1

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TFF Admin

I neglected to mention that the battery is the correct size dimensionally but for some odd reason did not have the hold down lugs on the sides of the battery as shown in the picture.

The owner of Battery Stuff dot come offered refund me for the battery and shipping but I decided to see if I could make a small modification to make this battery work. The problem is the battery shown in the picture has hold down lugs and the battery I was shipped did nothave the hold down lugs. Evidently the manufacturer discontinued manufacturing this model battery with the hold down lugs.

When checked back with MK who is the manufacturer of this battery and they told me that the picture of the battery shown is out of date and incorrect. These batteries DO NOT come with the hold down lugs on the sides as shown in the picture. I looked into if I could get a steel hold down bracket fabricated that I can put across the battery top and runs down the sides about an inch or two short of the OEM battery hold down nut plates. The braket allowed me to use the OEM bolts and nut plates to secure the battery in place.

With the battery installed now. (See Below Pic)

A friend fabricated a battery hold down strap out of 1" wide x 1/8" thick strap iron. The strap basically runs from about 3" from the bottom sides of the battery across the top and is heavily wrapped in "100 mph tape" to prevent the iron strap from shorting out the battery. I am going to add a piece of radiator hose or similar hose which has been split down the middle as added insurance. The iron strap has tabs or "ears" that are belt at right angle so the strap portion running down the sides of the battery and the tabs are drilled out and slightly elongated to allow the OEM battery hold down bolt to be utilized.

I will post more pics and post a follow up below to let everyone who is interested know how this mod works out. The battery starts the engine a bit easier than the OEM battery but after nearly 4 years, I think the Strong Box OEM battery is getting tired. Hopefully this will eliminate the outgassing & corrosion problem for good!

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TFF Admin

A view of the cross section of the battery compartment floor and the OEM hold down bolts in the floor nut plates. I double nutted the OEM hold down bolts to prevent them from loosening.

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TFF Admin

The white powdery deposites are not corrosion. It is the dried heavy baking soda solution I washed the entire area down in to neutralize the acid corrosion.

post-376-144848460765_thumb.jpg

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TFF Admin

This problem seems to be particularly prone to the John Deere 4000 series tractors and many other tractor with that have a non-sealed lead acid battery located directly in front of the radiator, so you may want to pull out your battery and take a looksee to inspect for any corrosion problems. This would not be a bad idea for any tractor with the battery mounted directly in front of the radiator.

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TFF Admin

At first I thought the battery was being overcharged as well. The problem is that the battery compartment and mount pad are extremely confined and do not allow for much if any heat shielding. In fact the battery sets directly up against the powersteering/transmission oil cooler. The hyd. oil can get very hot, especially in the summer heat. The heat is directly transfered to the battery and as a result it outgasses more than a typical battery. The battery gasses get drawn into the oil cooler and radiator. Indeed and basic design flaw. This is sore spot with MANY Deere owners with this battery installation setup.

Below is the entire photo shot group I took of this area covering this modification:

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SHARTEL

There are so many CUT's with the battery forward of the radiator and in the same position as your JD. build these days. The problem is wide spread and the solution is sealed batteries...but it's almost always too late as the acid damage is done.

We have done a few repairs related to the same problems associated with your model too and used Optima $ealed batteries. For sure a "Whops" with the engineers - and the dealers who did try and fix the problem, haven't made many JD owners as happy as they should have (a wash and rattle can make over).

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TFF Admin

Well, folks.......nothing lasts forever and my sealed battery that I installed back in late 2003 is finally on its last leg and must be nursed along with a battery charger/maintainer in cold weather to get enough juice to start and even then it just barely does the job.  Time for a new battery!  I am doing my best to find an AGM battery BCI group 22NF but there may be other batteries that may fit.  If any of you have already done this, PLEASE feel invited to post what you did and how it worked out.  So far, some of the candidates I have found are:

http://estorebc.mkbattery.com/productinfo/12v31m.aspx

http://www.batteryweb.com/mazda-miata-batteries.cfm

https://www.walmart.com/ip/UPG-45825-UPG-45825-UB12550-Group-22Nf-Sealed-Lead-Acid-Battery/21618824?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=1082&adid=22222222227022221651&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=55886356511&wl4=pla-92550545351&wl5=9013615&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=112561763&wl11=online&wl12=21618824&wl13=&veh=sem    This looks promising as it is on sale and has a 560 cold cranking amps. :happy34:

 

From what I have read about, an Optima Yellow Top D51R will work.

I'll post more as I find them. 

 

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flman

I actually had a get a battery at the Autozone because it was a Sunday, and I had to make my own retainer with threaded rod and vinyl hose as a cushion. If you find a good AGM for this application that would be great, for now I have a couple years on my battery, and will be watching for any corrosion.

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